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Venom Night Ranger 3D Quick Setup Guide

A guide on what to do when you first get your Venom NightRanger 3D helicopter.  Some very useful tips, specially for the first timer (Although after flying both the Nightranger 3D and Mini-Titan E325, I WOULD NOT recommend the Nightranger 3D as a first helicopter - This is my opinion!)

This is another one of those texts that im not sure where i got it from, but is hepfull to try and tame the Nightranger 3D,

Nigel...


Start off by adjusting the PZT knob towards the "+" to increase the pitch at low stick. This will calm things down a little (it will bring the RPM down). The PLT knob will adjust the overall Collective Pitch travel. Hopefully you will not have to adjust this one (I adjusted mine so that the motor does not bog at full throttle).

 

If the knobs have no effect on pitch, flip DIP switch #8 on the back of the transmitter to "Unlock". My knobs did nothing until I did this. Once you get things where you want them, you can flip the switch back to "Lock". Bear in mind, that once you unlock DIP #8, any factory settings with regard to collective will be lost.

The collective, like everything else on this machine is very sensitive. As I get used to the VNR3D, I think I will soon be able to take a nap while flying the Blade CP (just kidding).

C of G (Venomous) from Venom provided information on another forum with regard to what the knobs actually do, which was extremely helpful.

I unplugged the main motor from the 4-in-1 and played with the pitch knobs to see what their effect was (while restraining the machine so that I would not become a victim of the tail rotor.

To slow the response of the model

Take a look at the servo horns.

There are two more holes in from the stock position the swashplate link can be moved to.

  1. Remove the pin from the clevis, its brass
  2. Slide the clevis over one hole towards the center of the servo and insert the pin
  3. Repeat this for all the servos
  4. Check your pitch again and tracking if you changed the pitch. You may have to lengthen the links half a turn or so (all 3 equally)
  5. Test hover and see if you like it.

Tip:

  1. If you're a novice heli pilot please use training gear to give you a larger base to land on. This will keep you from tipping over easily.
  2. Hover the model at least 6in off the ground for better control. The air is slightly less turbulent and makes it easier. You will have to build up the nerve to do it but its better the higher you go.
  3. Train yourself to shut the power off before the model hits something. The sooner you do this the less the damage will be compared to crashing under power.
  4. Look for damaged, cracked parts and loose screws and bolts all of the time before and after each flight. You can and will lose (read crash) the model if you dont keep up the maintenance an intricate machine like these helicopters require. JUST BECAUSE IT'S AN ARF DOSNT MEAN IT WILL FLY FOREVER UNCHECKED! Even the first flight out of the box! PREFLIGHT CHECK! PREFLIGHT CHECK! PREFLIGHT CHECK!

Lock and unlocked dip switch #8

The locking feature is very simple;

  1. To have full control over the pitch range of the VNR3D the #8 DIP stitch on the back of the radio must be in the unlocked position.
  2. While "UNLOCKED" the pitch range and mixing knobs are active and will change the pitch characteristics while in use.
  3. To save the settings you want just slide the #8 DIP switch back to "LOCK" position.

Tip:

If you are not comfortable with the VNR3D yet, land before you adjust the pitch range to avoid any accidents. You do not have to be flying to make any adjustments to the pitch settings.

WARNING! DO NOT SWITCH ANY OF THE OTHER DIP SWITCHES!! Doing so will change the ccpm mixing, servo reversing, etc

The blades should be at 0deg. pitch in Normal Mode when the throttle stick is at 0-50% range. Then from 50% and up the pitch has to move into the positive range.

  1. Unplug the motor wires to the main motor and tail (mark these plugs so you dont mix them up)
  2. Turn on the radio and plug in a battery to the heli while sitting flat on a table or level surface.
  3. In Normal Mode, move the TH stick to the 50% position, maybe move it through the whole range first then back to 50% and stop.
  4. Observe the blade pitch.
  5. Adjust the long link from the swashplate so that the blades are set to 0-.5deg. positive pitch. Make them even. KEEP THE FLYBAR LEVEL TO THE GROUND AND SQUARE TO THE MAIN SHAFT AT ALL TIMES WHEN CHECKING AND ADJUSTING.
  6. Turn the heli off (unplug the batt.) and reconnect the motor plugs
  7. WHEN TURNING THE MODEL ON MAKE SURE THE MODEL IS SITTING ON LEVEL GROUND SO THE GYRO INITIATES PROPERLY.
  8. Plug in a fully charged battery (radio turned on first) and test hover the model. Reset the tracking if need be but if the above adjustment was done correctly the tracking should be spot on.

Tip:

  1. Use a micro heli pitch gauge, drafting square with reference lines to 0deg. or some form of indicator to set the blades. Otherwise trial and error works too.
  2. Adjust the head block to the top of the machined flat on the main shaft and tighten the set screw there. Do not tighten the set screw above the flat on the round shaft. So to be clear the set screw presses against the flat on the shaft but it can slide up or down within the flat on the shaft. Make sure it's at the top of the flat and tighten it. Use Loctite!!!!

To check the pitch in 3D mode follow the same steps as above except switch the radio to FLIGHT MODE 1 on the toggle switch. Follow the steps and adjust for 0deg. pitch at 50% TH stick and try to get the pos/neg pitch to be equal. It should work out to be about 10deg +/- pitch. Use the pitch range knob on the top left as well.

Things to loctite:

  1. The stainless steel set screw in the green machined portion of the rotor head. This set screw, when tightened, should rest in the flat machined onto the main rotor shaft. The set screw should be at the top of the flat area, per Venom.
  2. The knurled collar (also anodised green) at the base of the rotor head. I have loosened mine, applied a small amount of blue loctite here, and tightened this back up as well.
  3. The black set screw in the silver collar on the main shaft immediately above the frame.
  4. The black set screw in the aluminium main gear hub at the bottom of the main shaft.

All of these things should be loctited and kept tight.

Please note that there is a collar above the main gear and identical to the one above the frame. This collar is used as a spacer and does not require a set screw.

If you set the blades to 0deg pitch at 0% throttle, you will have a perfectly symmetrical amount of pitch when you go into 3D mode.

Do note though the helicopter will jump off the ground slightly when you first take off. I typically mechanically set it to this with both knobs center and the #8 dip switch turned to the "unlock" position. Once I've mechanically set that, I turn the right knob to about the 10 o'clock position. This will set the blades to a small amount of positive pitch, and this will yield a nice gentle lift off, though again, this will take away from your available negative pitch when you go inverted.

So if you are planning to go do aerobatics, keep the knob at 12 o'clock. (Assuming the setup I mentioned has been done.

Things to do / check when they're new out of the box:

  • Disassemble the linkages to make sure the metal stud engages the plastic parts by at least 4 turns. On mine, the studs engaged the plastic parts by only 1 to 1 1/2 turns. I'm guessing that's a bad thing; they're wiggly too.
  • Make sure the set screws are loctited. The main gear wasn't on mine and it loosened up right away.
  • Put training gear on it (make your own with dowel rods & ping pong balls) and slowly spin it up without taking off. What you're looking for is proper servo operation-- mine had a servo that would go full cycle very quickly once the rotor was spinning fast. (it would jump around on the ground by itself)
  • Install the metal balls & studs on the see saw assembly (like everyone talks about). The part number for the Losi balls is (LOSB1051) and I found that the hex screws & nuts for the landing gear work great for studs.
  • Make sure the flybar holder slides easily on the "T-shaped holder"-- mine didn't. It's much easier to fly when you can vary the pitch.
  • Make sure the servo horns are all (inversely) equal and the swash plate is level and centred. That way, everything moves at equal rates and makes controlling it much more intuitive. It'll be a combination of servo horn placement, servo linkage adjustment, and trim tab adjustment to pull it off.
  • When going from full left to full right aileron, make sure both servos move-- you might have one stop moving well ahead of the other which binds the swash plate and/or moves it up, changing the pitch. For me, it was mostly trim tab adjustment to do this (after the mechanicals are adjusted).
  • Get some high quality hex drivers. The supplied hex keys will only strip the heads.
  • In other words, you have to go over every inch of it, transmitter included.

To stop it flying backwards, place your battery in sideways and make sure it's secured well.
Placing it sideways reduces some of the tail weight.

Check your centre of gravity by holding the flybar in two fingers with the blades going straight along the nose to tail.

The heli should either be level or just tilting slightly forwards.

They all go a little to the left when first taking off, but you can trim it a bit better with the trims

Hot tips for your 3D cg and set up

Take the tail boom and slide it all the way forward until it hits the stop in the chassis. This will help shift the CG forward on the box stock 3D's w/o brushless and the model will balance out.

Set up the swash with a degree or so of forward tilt and right tilt. This will zero out the torque effects and help center your trims. Also center the dials at 12 o'clock to start with.


Written By: Nigel
Date Posted: 12/16/2007
Number of Views: 6360

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